Scottish Winter Climbing
Winter climbing conditions in Scotland are superb at the moment. Whilst there is not really an established base of snow in the corries it is down to the road and consistently freezing. Tamsin and I based ourselves at Fort William and climbed in Glencoe and the Southern Highlands over a few days.
We climbed Blue Riband (V) first. Described as one of the best water ice routes in Glencoe this route rarely comes into condition. We're still not sure whether it was but it was an adventure all the same (and the Aonach Eagach is always worth doing).
Next we climbed Crest Route (V 6) in Stob Coire nan Lochan. Originally grade IV this route is described as a good introduction to modern snowed up rock climbing in the guidebook. We finished direct up the groove (there is an easier alternative route out left to finish) which felt hard for V 6! There is also a crucial (ish) small chockstone which fell out here whilst Tamsin seconded this pitch. Those in extremis can hook an in situ nut if your ethics allow however (but you don't get the tick).
Lastly we climbed Messiah VII 7 on Beinn Dorain. Described as one of the Southern Highlands best lines it seemed a good choice for those who are heading south. There's two sustained turfy pitches with good climbing and positions. I wasn't sure if Crest Route was harder though!
Ben Nevis &...
Blue Riband...
Blue Riband...
Blue Riband...
Crest Route...
Crest Route V6
Messiah pit...
Messiah VII 7
