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Norway Ice Climbing

19/02/2012 12:22 pm

Tim Blakemore

Tags: Aurland , Gudvangen , ice climbing , Laerdal , Norway

I'm currently in Norway on what has become an annual pilgrimage to the land of the midnight sun. I'm based in Aurland on the shores of the Aurlandsfjorden which is home to porpoise, sea otter and many sea birds. Which is just as well as this year temperatures have warmed up a bit which has kept me inside rather than get out and new route on my days off. The ice is still definitely here though and if you are flexible in terms of where you climb there is plenty to do. I've climbed with Willy and Gareth this past week and climbed a few good routes (including a Laerdal 'classic') and perhaps even a new line.

We started our week repeating Ewen Todd's route 'the Toddifossen'. Slightly glassy water ice in a tight gully epitomise this route which becomes harder the higher you climb. The final pitch gives a great technical pitch at Scottish VI? We then went to the reliable venue of Hoggeberg where we climbed a steep pillar and then both Willy and Gareth led to the top. A good training venue which is worth visiting for the nearby stave church at Borgund (though it is currently covered in scaffolding at the moment).

With a mixed forecast ahead of us we chose the next day to bag a big route and chose the ultra classic Seltunfossen WI5 in Laerdal. A scrappy approach (including ridiculous fixed lines!) gets you to the base in about an hour. From here the first pitch just goes on and on. A full 60 metres of WI4 (Scottish V) gets you to a semi hanging stance. Then another huge rope stretcher at WI4+ gets you to a slight easing before the final tier. The final pitch is normally steep homogenous WI5 but this year it has formed differently. A very steep (overhanging) pull gets you into a world of cauliflowers and ice sculpture. Fantastic to climb and absorbing for its length. A great route!

The weather then took a turn for the worse and we have been prospecting about for different (above sea level) venues. We went to a venue near Stalheim which we were tipped off about by the Finns staying nearby. Martin and Ewen bailed in rising temperatures after a pitch on the Sivlefossen and went to the secret 'Troll Tunnels' (I still don't know where they are). Gareth, Willie and I climbed on a fall opposite and had a good time climbing up to WI5.

We finally went on the 'Hol' road to around 700m where ice abounds. The Frenchies (they are staying in Gudvangen and hope to climb the Fossilmonster) repeated Moran and Macperson's 'the Stonner' which they had climbed a few days earlier. We spent a day climbing then top roping some savagely steep ice nearby. We then spent a happy half hour blocking the Frenchmen's car in with a hilarious snowman complete with Gauloise and moss beret. Oh how we laughed.

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